Wave breaking can be categorized into the following three types.
1. Spilling
Spilling waves usually occur when a small slope towards the flat beach (small slope). Waves breaking at a considerable distance from the beach and the outbreak occurred gradually. Foam occurs at the peak of the wave during broken and left a thin layer of foam on a long distance.
2. Plunging
If the slope of the wave and the base increases, the wave will break and the peak wave will play with the mass of water at the peak of the wave will jump to the front. Broken wave energy was destroyed in the turbulence, a small portion is reflected to the sea coast, and not much new wave occurred in the more shallow water.
3. Surging
Surging occurs on the beach with a very large slope, as happened in the rocky shore. Region is very narrow wave broke, and most of the energy reflected back into the deep ocean. Surging type breaking wave is similar to the plunging, but before the top falls, the basic wave has broken.
1. Spilling
Spilling waves usually occur when a small slope towards the flat beach (small slope). Waves breaking at a considerable distance from the beach and the outbreak occurred gradually. Foam occurs at the peak of the wave during broken and left a thin layer of foam on a long distance.
2. Plunging
If the slope of the wave and the base increases, the wave will break and the peak wave will play with the mass of water at the peak of the wave will jump to the front. Broken wave energy was destroyed in the turbulence, a small portion is reflected to the sea coast, and not much new wave occurred in the more shallow water.
3. Surging
Surging occurs on the beach with a very large slope, as happened in the rocky shore. Region is very narrow wave broke, and most of the energy reflected back into the deep ocean. Surging type breaking wave is similar to the plunging, but before the top falls, the basic wave has broken.
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