The speed of propagation of waves depends on the depth of water where the wave propagates. If the rapid propagation of the wave decreases with depth, the wavelength also decreases linearly. Rapid variations occur in the propagation of waves along the wave crests move by forming an angle to the line depths of the sea, as part of a wave at sea in moving faster than the parts in a more shallow sea. These variations cause wave crests and tried to turn parallel to the seabed contour lines.
Wave refraction and shallow (shoaling wave) will be able to determine the wave height in a place based on the characteristics of the wave coming. Refraction has a significant influence on wave height and direction and wave energy distribution along the coast.
Changes in wave direction due to refraction produces convergence (reduction) or divergence (spreading) wave energy and wave energy that affects occur somewhere in the coastal region.
Assumptions used in the study of refraction are as follows.
a) The energy between the two orthogonal wave is constant.
b) wave spreading direction perpendicular to the top of the wave, ie in the direction orthogonal to the wave.
c) Rapid propagation of waves that have a certain period in a place only depends on the depth at the venue.
d) basic topographical changes are gradual.
e) A wave has a long peak, the period of constant, small amplitude and monokhromatik.
f) The influence of currents, winds and reflection from the beach and seabed topography changes are ignored.
Traveling wave with a wavelength in the sea in Lo, near the beach with a peak orientation at sea in parallel with the shoreline location average.
2 comments:
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